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Babydolls

Babydolls are short, loose lingerie that hangs from an empire waist and falls to the mid thigh. Sheer mesh, lace and satin, in open cup, underwire and plus size fits, cut to skim the body rather than cling to it.

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What is a babydoll?

A babydoll is a short lingerie dress that hangs from an empire waist, gathered just under the bust and falling free to around the mid thigh. Usually sleeveless, usually sheer, and almost always sold with a matching thong, because the shape is not built to cover anything below the hem.

That cut does real work on a silhouette. Because it flares from under the bust instead of following the waist, it reads as an A-line: it adds volume lower down, which balances a broader shoulder and flatters a fuller hip rather than fighting it. It is also why this is one of the few lingerie shapes that genuinely works in plus sizes instead of being scaled up and hoped over, and why a size that is not exact still hangs right.

It is the shape people reach for when the night is meant to feel romantic rather than hard edged, which is why it turns up for anniversaries, wedding nights and Valentine's more than anything else in lingerie. It is also the easiest lingerie to give as a gift, because one measurement has to be right instead of three. Two things to know before you choose. All the support comes from the cups and nowhere else, so underwire and molded cups do real work here and open cup styles do none by design. And the three short shapes are not interchangeable: a babydoll is the loosest and shortest, a chemise is cut closer and longer like a slip, and a teddy fastens between the legs, so it keeps its shape but loses the float.

Types of babydolls

Grouped by fabric and cut, with the rest of each one next door.

  • Sheer mesh: the see-through version and the most searched of the group. The mesh does the work, so these live or die on how the trim and the cups are finished.
  • Lace: more texture and more coverage than mesh at the same length. Reads softer and traditional rather than overtly sheer.
  • Satin: the slip-leaning end. Heavier, opaque and the one that photographs like a nightdress rather than like lingerie.
  • Open cup and underwire: the two ends of the support question. Underwire and molded cups shape the bust, open cup styles deliberately do not.
  • Chemise and slips: closer to the body and longer. The same idea with less float and more coverage.
  • Teddies: a single garment fastened between the legs. Holds its shape where a babydoll moves.
  • Bra and panty sets: if you want the structure of a real bra rather than a hem hanging from one.
  • Plus size lingerie: the same shapes in extended sizing, kept on its own page so the fits are easier to find.
  • Robes: what goes over the top of any of it.
  • All lingerie: the full range, if the shape is still undecided.

How to choose the right one

If you want it to skim rather than cling: a babydoll over a chemise. It is cut wide from the bust and touches nothing below it. A chemise follows the body, which is a completely different look on.

On sizing: measure the bust and ignore the rest. The bust is the only part that has to fit. Everything below it is loose on purpose, which is why this is the shape to buy when you cannot try it on first. See plus size lingerie for the extended fits.

If you want the bust held: underwire or molded cups. Support comes from the cups alone here, because there is no structure anywhere else in the garment. Open cup styles are a different decision entirely and not a support one.

If sheer is the point: look at the trim, not the fabric. Every mesh is see-through. What separates a good one from a cheap one is how the hem, the straps and the cup edges are finished, and that is what you can see in the photos.

If it is a gift: this is the safest lingerie shape to buy for somebody else. The loose cut absorbs a size that is slightly off, so it survives a guess in a way a fitted piece does not. It also arrives looking like an occasion rather than like a practical purchase.

If you want it to last: hand wash cold, hang to dry. Mesh and lace lose their shape in a machine faster than any other lingerie fabric, and the hem is the first thing to go. See all lingerie for the rest of the range.